QLT Ulano. Universal Ready-to-Use Screen Printing Emulsion. 0,5 Kg – 1 Kg – 4 Kg

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QLT Ulano. Universal Ready-to-Use Screen Printing Emulsion. 0,5 Kg – 1 Kg – 4 Kg

Pack 0,5 Kg - 1 kg - 4 Kg
SUPER FAST Screen Printing Emulsion.
For exposing even without UV light.
For Plastisol and solvent-based inks.
Enables a limited number of prints with water-based inks.

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Useful with this product

Full description

– What is this emulsion for?
QLT universal emulsion is particularly suitable for exposing screens on which Plastisol and Solvent-based inks are to be used.
Our tests have shown that the maximum output with water-based inks is approximately 200 prints.
But it’s still a Universal Screen Printing Emulsion, suitable for all ink types.

– Is it necessary to add Diazo?
No, for this type of emulsion adding Diazo is not necessary.
Therefore it is considered a ready-for-use emulsion.
If kept refrigerated at 5°C, it can last up to 90 days.
In any case, it must be stored in a dark location and in a sealed container.

– What stripper can be used to remove it?
This type of emulsion can be effectively removed from the screen using the Quasar Liquid Stripper.

– What light needs to be used for exposing the screen?
QLT emulsion can be exposed with both white and UV light

What procedure should I follow to make the best use of QLT Screen Printing Emulsion?

To successfully use QLT Screen Printing Emulsion (and any other emulsion in general) we suggest the following procedure.

– Exposure lamp to frame distance. The ideal distance between the exposure lamp and the frame is 1.5 m, but in my opinion 1 m is a good enough compromise.
I’d try an exposure time of 4 minutes.

– Emulsion thickness. The emulsion thickness is normally measured in micrometers, not in millimetres, and the final thickness of the emulsified screen must more or less correspond to the thickness of the mesh: in fact, the emulsion actually sits between the threads of the mesh, meaning the external layer is really thin.
To achieve this, the final pass with the scoop coater should be done backwards, in so doing, and by applying moderate pressure, it’s possible to remove the excess emulsion and gather it into the scoop coater.

– A thin layer of emulsion offers a number of advantages:
1) whilst drying, the emulsion doesn’t drip;
2) the thickness is more uniform, it isn’t impacted so much by the operator’s dexterity, therefore the exposure times are easier to control;
3) if some of the lines in the design are quite fine, the light doesn’t harden the emulsion under them because the light doesn’t “pass through” the film.
Indeed, I think that the problem you experienced (fine lines not being visible) is due to an excessively thick layer of emulsion, an excessive exposure time due to the 35 cm distance from the exposure lamp, and perhaps also the fact that a laser toner doesn’t produce a black that’s sufficiently opaque on the film.

– After 30 minutes of washing the emulsion starts to have issues, it effectively melts or, if it’s too thick, it comes off the screen in lumps.
Preparing a screen printing frame in water should take no longer than 4-5 minutes.
If, after this period of time, nothing happens, it means something’s wrong.

Q&A

Which product do you suggest for removing QLT emulsion and reusing the screen?
Answer to the question from Daniela

The most suitable product for QLT emulsion is the Liquid Stripper: https://world.cplfabbrika.com/liquid-emulsion-stripping-1-liter.html

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I bought emulsion for cold light exposure, but I can no longer get the exposure timeframes exactly right. If I expose the frame for 15/20 minutes the lines printed on the gel aren't visible. Perhaps the stronger the light, the shorter the exposure time, is that right?
Answer to the question from Ilaria

That’s correct, the stronger the light, the shorter the exposure time.
Therefore, if the lines aren’t visible, the exposure time needs to be reduced.

I don’t know anything about the exposure system you’re using, but we know for sure that, for the same exposure system, the ready-to-use emulsion for white light needs to be exposed for approximately half the time with respect to a diazo emulsion.

I suggest trying an exposure time of 10 minutes, if the lines still aren’t visible, try 5 minutes.

If the exposure is insufficient, you can always increase it until you find the correct intermediate time.

Show
Can QLT Screen Printing Emulsion be removed from the screen using nitro cellulose thinner?
Answer to the question from David

All screenprinting emulsions, including QLT, cannot be removed from the screen using a nitro cellulose thinner, it’ll have no effect at all, but they can be removed with a dedicated stripper, for example: https://world.cplfabbrika.com/liquid-emulsion-stripping-1-liter.html

Show
I purchased some emulsion for cold light exposure, but I can no longer get the exposure times exactly right. If I expose the frame for 15/20 minutes, the lines printed on the gel aren't visible. Perhaps the stronger the light is, the shorter the exposure time needs to be, is that right?
Answer to the question from Thomas

That’s correct, the stronger the light, the shorter the exposure time.
So, if the lines aren’t visible, the exposure time needs to be reduced.

I don’t have any information regarding the exposure system you’re using, but we know for sure that, for the same exposure system, the ready-to-use emulsion for white light needs to be exposed for approximately half the time compared to a diazo emulsion.

I suggest trying an exposure time of 10 minutes, if the lines are still not visible, try 5 minutes.

If the exposure is insufficient, you can always increase the time until you find the correct intermediate number of minutes.

Show
What procedure should I follow to make the best use of QLT Screen Printing Emulsion?
Answer to the question from Frank

To successfully use QLT Screen Printing Emulsion (and any other emulsion in general) we suggest the following procedure.

  • Exposure lamp to frame distance. The ideal distance between the exposure lamp and the frame is 1.5 m, but in my opinion 1 m is a good enough compromise.
    I’d try an exposure time of 4 minutes.
  • Emulsion thickness. The emulsion thickness is normally measured in micrometers, not in millimetres, and the final thickness of the emulsified screen must more or less correspond to the thickness of the mesh: in fact, the emulsion actually sits between the threads of the mesh, meaning the external layer is really thin.
    To achieve this, the final pass with the scoop coater should be done backwards, in so doing, and by applying moderate pressure, it’s possible to remove the excess emulsion and gather it into the scoop coater.
  • A thin layer of emulsion offers a number of advantages:
    1) whilst drying, the emulsion doesn’t drip;
    2) the thickness is more uniform, it isn’t impacted so much by the operator’s dexterity, therefore the exposure times are easier to control;
    3) if some of the lines in the design are quite fine, the light doesn’t harden the emulsion under them because the light doesn’t “pass through” the film.
    Indeed, I think that the problem you experienced (fine lines not being visible) is due to an excessively thick layer of emulsion, an excessive exposure time due to the 35 cm distance from the exposure lamp, and perhaps also the fact that a laser toner doesn’t produce a black that’s sufficiently opaque on the film.
  • After 30 minutes of washing the emulsion starts to have issues, it effectively melts or, if it’s too thick, it comes off the screen in lumps.
    Preparing a screen printing frame in water should take no longer than 4-5 minutes.
    If, after this period of time, nothing happens, it means something’s wrong.
Show
I purchased some emulsion for cold light exposure, but I can no longer get the exposure times exactly right. If I expose the frame for 15/20 minutes, the lines printed on the gel aren't visible. Perhaps the stronger the light is, the shorter the exposure time needs to be, is that right?
Answer to the question from Frank

That’s correct, the stronger the light, the shorter the exposure time.

So, if the lines aren’t visible, the exposure time needs to be reduced.
I don’t know what exposure system you’re using, but we know for sure that, for the same exposure system, the ready-to-use emulsion for white light needs to be exposed for approximately half the time compared to a diazo emulsion.

I suggest trying an exposure time of 10 minutes, if the lines are still not visible, try 5 minutes.

If the exposure time then proves to be insufficient, you can always increase the number of minutes until you find the correct intermediate time.

Show
Reading the product description, I see that the QLT Ulano emulsion lasts for approximately 3 months if kept at a temperature of 5°C or lower. If I bought some extra pots and made sure that I kept them cool and unopened, how long would they last?
Answer to the question from George

The QLT Ulano emulsion, in an unopened container, lasts for approximately 1 year at 20°C.

Once opened, if kept refrigerated at 5°C, it should last up to 90 days.

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